Ghost of Goldwater: Day 4: Giving praise that elephants are herbivores

The next day I was ready to go just after 6AM. There were no lines at this camp, which is considerably smaller than Skukuza. I first set out for the lookout spot where I'd had no luck yesterday and again, I struck out. I turned back and headed for the paved road up to Letaba to get breakfast. However, I soon saw my first predator. Three hyenas were walking along the road I had just come, and I followed them until they popped back into the bushes. At the H1-5 up to Letaba, I saw a sign for yet another lookout spot. This one was high above the Olifants river and also afforded great views but little more.

Hyenas in the morning sun.

Stomach growling, I took up the course for Letaba again. I had gone a little while when I spotted a herd of ellies on both sides of the road. I slowed down to a crawl, then stopped completely and turned off the engine as a medium-sized cow began crossing. And then the funniest thing happened. Halfway over, she turned around and stared at me. As I felt the hairs on my arm starting to rise, she began to come closer… and closer… and closer. At the end she was stood against my bumper, while her trunk was exploring the hood and my tires. As I had my windows open, I was afraid she might wreak havoc inside the cabin. Also, in my head was playing a continuous loop of a video I had seen on YouTube, where a small, white car (much like the one I was driving) is trashed by an angry elephant.

Fortunately, she seemed to be in a good mood. Car sufficiently checked out, she turned away and went into the ditch on the other side of the road. I almost got a heart attack when a smaller ellie walked onto the road right after and began taking an interest. Blissfully, she just checked me out from a distance, then she too went out on the other side. I was left with one of my greatest wildlife experiences, a profound sense of the might and gentleness of these animals and probably some slightly soiled underwear.

Video of the cow as she was just leaving. I will never forgive myself for not remembering to turn on the fucking thing while she was still approaching.

The smaller one.

I drove on, and a few minutes later, I encountered yet another group of ellies. This one had a handful of cute little babies, so I stopped and tried to get some pics & video in.

Sho cute.

Cutie pies.

At this age, they seldom go more than a few steps away from mommy.

At Letaba, I had pancakes (pretty much American style, since you ask) while trying to calm my frayed nerves. Afterwards, I drove back towards Olifant, still emotionally exhausted. However, my batteries were soon recharged. Not far from the road into camp, there's a small dusty path that leads down to the riverbank and this time the river was full of hippos and crocs and cute wittle vervet monkeys were playing around in the trees. A couple of them got so excited, they jumped up on the hood of the car to get a good look. Ah tells ya, it's a completely different feeling having a cheeky monkey on your hood instead of an ellie!

A waterbuck I photographed along the way. Quite handsome animals.

That thing in the middle is a hippo, not a rock. The head was submerged when I first got there and it was only when she wiggled an ear that I realized what I was looking at.

Crocs. Lazy but deadly.

I saw several of the monkeys turning over rocks to get at whatever was underneath.

The beginnings of the human race, ladies and gentlemen.

Inspecting my car.

You put your left foot in...

Confounded by the mystery of glass.

Up at the lookout point, I took a quick movie to show the beauty of the landscape. I then drove back to camp. Recharging the phone, napping and then out for a round of shopping at the store. I then felt it was time for lunch, which was taken out on the patio with great views over the Olifants River. Off to my left a family of hippos were sleeping in the sun. I had left my big camera in the trunk of the car, but still got a good shot with my phone. The meal was one of the best cheeseburgers I have ever had, and the only problem was the appx. ten gazillion wasps that decided my plate and my coke zero was a great place to settle. I thought these things were made without sugar. Hrrrmph!

Video from the lookout point.

The hippos I saw when I had mah lunch.

Mah lunch. They do some mean burgers in this country.

Finally, I drove out to the first viewpoint, where I saw some ellies and some cape buffalo on the way and at the lookout I shot a nice video and several pics of a herd of ellies walking east along the river. Dinner consisted of only a Cape Malva pudding and some coke zero. Believe it or not, I'd had enough meat for one day and that's also not a common occurrence.

Cape buffalo. Very deadly.

They're as grumpy as their distant relatives in America and even more aggressive. Then again, I drove through a huge herd of 'em last year and they hardly even looked at me.