I drove on south alongside Loch Lomond, then across to Edinburgh before turning south again to Cornhill, a small place about 30 minutes west of Berwick upon Tweed (England). The hotel I had booked was an old manor house, very stylish and all, but the experience was somewhat ruined by a huge stain on the bed, which ran all the way from the top sheet down through several layers of blankets into the matress itself. Yuck.
Rather than pay the exorbitant £35 the hotel charged for a dinner, I ventured out to find some cheap pub grub. Within five minutes I found myself in the tiny Scottish border town of Coldstream which advertised itself as the "first real border toon" if I remember correctly. Here I had one of the best, positive surprises of my traveling life. I went to a cozy little pub called the Besom and ordered something called Moroccan chicken. This turned out to be possibly the best meal I've had on the British Isles. The sauce was honeybased and the taste was simply divine. I had just enough shame in me not to order a second full dinner, and settled for stuffing my face with their delicious cheesecake instead. If you're ever in the north of England or the south of Scotland, try this place!
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