Friday, September 30, 2011

Dover Castle

After the cliffs, I drove on for two minutes to the magnificent Dover Castle. The castle is absofuckinlutely huge, the largest in England and contains everything from a Roman lighthouse to WW2 tunnels. I must hang my head in shame and admit right now that I didn't bother with the WW2 stuff, since it was a long wait to get in, and I was beginning to suffer from old ruins overdose. Apparently the underground tunnels, which was the British HQ during the evacuation from Dunkirk in 1940, started life as barracks for troops to fight an eventual French invasion during the Napoleonic Wars. I pwomise to see 'em and report back next time, mmmkay?

Dover was a very important harbour, one of the Cinque Ports (pronounced "sink") of yore. In addition to regular trade, the area was also home to thousands of smugglers over the years, taxes and tariffs being no more popular than today. The castle itself became known as "the key to England", when the Normans started building it in the 12th century. Like with so many ancient castles, there have been numerous reconstructions and additions. I'll let the pics do the talkin' from now on:

An Irish wolfhound, belonging to one of the many volunteers who act around the castle. About the size of a small pony (the dog, not the volunteer).
SANY0087

From the Royal chambers in the keep - several of the English kings spent time at Dover.
SANY0072

Gaudy colors, but apparently this was quite common way back when. I've even read that the old Greek marble statues used to be painted in bright colors.
SANY0061

This is my hole and I'm bloody well staying here!
SANY0036

View from the roof of the keep - north.
SANY0085

View to the south.
SANY0077

The keep in all its splendor - and this was just one part of the castle.
SANY0039

A model of the keep.
SANY0048

I can't help it... I get misty-eyed when I see Union Jack waving in the wind.
SANY0083

The Roman lighthouse.
SANY0027

Ancient boomstick. So ancient, it's not even boom.
SANY0075

Some modern boomsticks. Now THESE make LARGE boom.
SANY0089

What a scribe's workplace looked like.
SANY0068

Where they kept the money. Sweet, sweet money.
SANY0069

Finally, a wascally wabbit sniffing around the castle grounds.
SANY0091

The White Cliffs of Dover

"There'll be bluuuuuuebirds oooooover
the white cliffs of Dooooover..."

Not bloody likely, as the bluebird is an exclusively North American species, and the yank who wrote those words had probably never even seen Dover. Yesterday I finally got a chance to see the white cliffs with my own eyes, and let me tell you; they're mighty purdy. Dover town isn't much, nothing like Canterbury, but the cliffs are well worth a look, both from afar, as a grand sight and close up, as a geological wonder.

The strikingly white cliffs are made from chalk, interspersed with dark flintstones. The chalk is formed by the remains of long dead algae and other living things from hundreds of millions of years ago. The stone wall is slowly being washed away by the sea, sometimes less than a centimeter a year, sometimes large chunks of rock fall down. Ironically, these huge chalk hills, which can be found over large parts of England, are known as "downs" locally - from Anglo-Saxon "dün", meaning hill. Which is why you can hear an Englishman say he's been "up on the downs", and not feel the urge to back away slowly, being careful not to make eye contact.

All white cliff pics here.

Modern Dover harbour, where the ferries go back and forth between England and France.
SANY0002

Sho, sho purdy. Looking north.
SANY0008

The view south. The buildings on the hill far away are part of Dover Castle.
SANY0006

Typical "Downs" geology - a comparatively thin layer of grassland on top of many meters of chalk.
SANY0005

This pic may look like a flat field, but it's actually a steep hill.
SANY0016

Quote of the Day

Continental people have sex, the English have hot-water bottles.
- George Mikes

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Deal Castle

My third and final touristy destination yesterday, was Deal Castle. Deal is a small town out by the sea, where Henry VIII (8 for you numerically challenged out there) built one of his many fortresses around the coast to protect the nation from a possible joint Catholic onslaught. The money to finance this huge building project was, ironically, taken from the many monasteries he'd just nationalized...

The castle is quite large, and built in the form of a Tudor rose. It was quite modern for its time, with multiple layers of defense and very thick walls.
SANY0111

Kalabalooom.
SANY0112

What makes kalabaloom.
SANY0132

A deep bread oven. Mmmmmm, bread.
SANY0116

Down at the bottom of this slope there was a long, narrow, unlit passage to the left. I took it till I suddenly found myself in water, then I turned back.
SANY0133

The luverly (not) North Sea. There were actually people swimming near the shore. The British are mad.
SANY0140

Richborough

After a couple of very pleasant hours in Canterbury, I moved on to Richborough Castle, aka Rutupiae, the ruins of one of the earliest Roman settlements in England. Nowadays the site is a couple of miles inland, but back then the beach went almost right up to the buildings (and much of the land further out was an island which only quite recently became part of the "mainland").

Rutupiae went from the first wooden fort in AD 43 through several cycles of building, reconstruction and destruction. At one point the Romans built a huuuge arch here, quite famous in its time as the gate to Britain, and it marked the start of their paved road system leading from Kent to Canterbury and further on to London. Today, the A2 road pretty much covers the same stretch of land.

Nowadays there's not much left except ruins. Some ditches have been re-dug, to show where the original, much longer ditches where placed, but there's little to give you an idea of the vast military might and wealth of the Roman Empire manifested in the buildings and settlements that once covered the grounds. Therefore it is essential that you get a free audio guide and read the informative text put up around the site. As with most English Heritage sites they are excellent, and will really help you make sense of what would otherwise be just a heap of stone.


Concentric ditches and remains of defensive structures, which were later turned into civilian structures or rebuilt completely.
SANY0077

The old "mansio" - a building that probably stood more or less untouched through the several phases, it was used as a hotel, a bath and an administrative building.
SANY0093

This is all that now remains of the grand arch the Romans built. It was made of granite imported from Italy and reportedly stood almost 25 meters tall. It was probably torn down and put into the last, massive, defensive walls which now borders the English Heritage area, but which probably was much smaller than the actual settlement. It must have been a grand sight. Sic transit gloria mundi.
SANY0091

Oven? Furnace? Random hole in the wall?
SANY0098

It was an incredible day to be out and about - temps in the mid to lower 20s (70s F), nary a cloud in the sky, slight breeze. Ahhh!
SANY0100

Canterbury

My first diary from ENGERLAND! Wheeee! I landed Tuesday at Gatwick and first spent a very tiresome 15-20 mins dragging my luggage around to find the fuckin car rental area. I then spent a good 15-20 mins in the parking lot of the rental company, acquainting myself with the vehicle, freaking out over left hand driving and nearly, but only nearly smashing my newly bought GPS in pure hatred. I finally got the fucker to work when I found out that the button that for all intents and purposes looked like a "back" button was the one that actually initated a new route. Gaaah.

I spent the night uneventfully in the small town of Crawley, south of Gatwick. Next morning I drove up to Canterbury, and although the route is reasonably straightforward, I was beginning to like my GPS. When you're all alone in the world (sniffle, sniffle) any human voice is welcome, and a real one is progress compared to the ones inside my head. For one, it tends not to scream for blood so much.

Canterbury is a very nice place. Quaint, cozy - just the right mix of touristy and cultural. Lots of narrow streets and alleys, pedestrian areas, museums, tons of pubs; some ancient and some doing their best to look it. Street artists, people in costumes doing advertizing, lots of tourists about - and bar a handful of Krauts, the vast majority were British. It was wonderful to see that just a short hour from the bustling internationalism of London was this essentially English city, where English people were going about their English business in an English way. Ah lub, lub, lub 'em.

I visited two museums in town; the city museum and the Roman Museum. The city museum had some interesting stuff about Canterbury's various phases, from the first Roman forts till the present day. The Roman museum had some interesting mosaics (the whole area was excavated after the Blitz bombing laid bare the ancient ruins) and it illustrated wonderfully how civilized Britain became at the time - and how far and how horribly that civilization fell during the Dark Ages. Sigh.

Anyways, here are some pics - you can find the rest of 'em here.

A small version of ancient Canterbury castle, which is now just a ruin.
SANY0005

Yep, just a ruin.
SANY0003

I was too cheap to spend the £9 to get in, so you'll have to settle for a picture of the rooftop of the famous cathedral. Why people pay good money to see this symbol of ancient idiocy, where the leader (called "Archbishop") of the English department of the largest, organized, criminal organization in the world (the Catholic church) rightly got his head smashed in is beyond me. Thomas fuckin' Becket wasn't even a priest and barely read Latin when he was made top dog.
SANY0022

The "science" of making faces based on skulls is ridiculously subjective, but it was still interesting to see these two romano-britons, buried sometime after the empire had retreated from England.
SANY0026

A section of the museum devoted to more recent stuff.
SANY0029

I believe this was an earlier, failed version of "Wings"?
SANY0033

At the Roman museum I was hounded by school classes (think twenty pluss lil bastards screaming at the top of their lungs), but still managed to get in a couple of shots... this stone is all that remains of a ventilation shaft that led hot air to the baths in Roman times. Baths were an important part of social life back then, but due to its more... ahem, dirty connotations, it fell into disfavor during the Dark Ages. Oh yes, Christianity has a lot to answer for. Did you know that the famous Francis of Assisi, he who could "talk to the animals", bragged of never washing?
SANY0038

Tombstones often tell interesting stories. I liked the inscription on this one: "May the earth lie lightly on thee".
SANY0039

Not sure if this is an old market cross. Tons of people about, outdoor cafes, great weather, etc, etc.
SANY0047

More of the cathedral:
SANY0054

Heh.
SANY0055

Some buildings that, despite their advanced years are still standing. Or at least haven't fallen down yet.
SANY0057

SANY0061

SANY0060

Because, when I think about Thailand the first thing that comes to mind is not their wonderful, spicy, tasty, yummy food... but their sense of FASHION. Me love your accessories long time, baby.
SANY0062

At least they have the honesty to ADMIT they're primitive.
SANY0058

Call me a stickler for tradition, but I think maybe they should rotate them crosses 180 degrees...
SANY0059

Oh, the willpower it took not to go in there and buy one of everything.
SANY0064

When I saw these two establishments side by side my brain couldn't quite decide whether this was a match made in heaven or in hell.
SANY0070

Quote of the Day

If the English language made any sense, lackadaisical would have something to do with a shortage of flowers.
- Doug Larson

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Quote of the Day

The art of cooking as practised by Englishmen does not extend much beyond roast beef and plum pudding.
- Pehr Kalm

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Quote of the Day

I travelled among unknown men,
In lands beyond the sea;
Nor England! did I know till then
What love I bore to thee.
- William Wordsworth

Shrinking

As of 9AM today I'm at 106.4 kg. Wheeeeee!

Monday, September 26, 2011

Quote of the Day

Tomorrow I'm off to England. I'm not sure how reliable my internet connection will be there, so I've put in 3 weeks of quotes to be on the safe side. Enjoy!

Every great decision creates ripples - like a huge boulder dropped in a lake. The ripples merge, rebound off the banks in unforseeable ways. The heavier the decision, the larger the waves, the more uncertain the consequences.
- Benjamin Disraeli

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Quote of the Day

Well, some people talk of morality, and some of religion, but give me a little snug property.
- Maria Edgeworth

Saturday, September 24, 2011

All set for Engerland

Right. I'm pretty much all set for my trip to Engerland on Tuesday. I've even gone so far as to purchase a Satnav device, bringing me screaming and kicking into the 21st century. The satnav thingy has "easy" in the name so I figured it would be simple enough that even a technophobic eejit like yours truly can use it. If I haven't smashed it to pieces in a fit of idiocy-induced rage by the time I get back I might even get a touchphone sometime within the next decade or so.

I've planned this trip to pieces, like I normally do. Planning is at least half the fun of traveling and I've got a pretty tight program for most of the days; mainly English Heritage sites, but also some other properties. The hotels are booked, but I'm still open to suggestions about sights to see.

Final schedule:

9/27 Landing at Gatwick, staying in Crawley
9/28 Crawley - Canterbury
9/29 Canterbury - Dover
9/30 Dover - Hastings - Battle
10/1 Hastings - Pevensey - Lewes - Chichester
10/2 Chichester - Shanklin
10/3 Isle of Wight
10/4 Shanklin - Lymington - Salisbury
10/5 Salisbury - Stonehenge -Exeter
10/6 Exeter - Dartmoor - Plymouth
10/7 Plymouth - Fowey - St Mawes - Falmouth
10/8 Falmouth - Truro - Falmouth
10/9 Falmouth - Lizard - Penzance
10/10 Penzance - Land’s End - St Ives
10/11 St Ives - Tintagel
10/12 Tintagel - Ilfracombe
10/13 Ilfracombe
10/14 Ilfracombe - Chester
10/15 Chester
10/16 Chester
10/17 Chester - Coalville
10/18 Coalville - Arundel
10/19 Arundel - Crawley
10/20 Flying out from Gatwick

Quote of the Day

How pleasant it is to have money!
- Arthur Clough

Friday, September 23, 2011

Quote of the Day

Money, which represents the prose of life, and which is hardly spoken of in parlors without an apology, is, in its effects and laws, as beautiful as roses.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Quote of the Day

There are three great friends: an old wife, an old dog, and ready money.
- Benjamin Franklin

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Quote of the Day

The safest way to double your money is to fold it over once and put it in your pocket.
- Kin Hubbard

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Quote of the Day

It's a kind of spiritual snobbery that makes people think they can be happy without money.
- Albert Camus

Monday, September 19, 2011

Quote of the Day

Money speaks sense in a language all nations understand.
- Aphra Behn

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Quote of the Day

Demagogue: One who preaches a doctrine he knows to be untrue to men he knows to be idiots.
- H.L. Mencken

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Quote of the Day

A professional politician is a professionally dishonourable man. In order to get anywhere near high office he has to make so many compromises and submit to so many humiliations that he becomes indistinguishable from a streetwalker.
- H. L. Mencken

Friday, September 16, 2011

Quote of the Day

A good politician is quite as unthinkable as an honest burglar.
- H. L. Mencken

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Quote of the Day

A politician is an animal which can sit on a fence and yet keep both ears to the ground.
- H. L. Mencken

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Quote of the Day

I believe that all government is evil, and that trying to improve it is largely a waste of time.
- H. L. Mencken

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Quote of the Day

Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free than Christianity has made them good.
- H. L. Mencken

Monday, September 12, 2011

Quote of the Day

This week is Mencken week. Since today is local election day in Norway, we'll start with this one:

Democracy is the theory that the common people know what they want, and deserve to get it good and hard.
- H.L. Mencken

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Giving away more stuff

I got some Navajo jewelry that I cannot imagine will ever do me any earthly good. If you want it, holler.

SANY0001

Quote of the Day

If there is a God, he is a malign thug.
- Mark Twain

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Quote of the Day

If you can't get a compliment any other way, pay yourself one.
- Mark Twain

Friday, September 9, 2011

Quote of the Day

Many a small thing has been made large by the right kind of advertising.
- Mark Twain

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Quote of the Day

The holy passion of Friendship is of so sweet and steady and loyal and enduring a nature that it will last through a whole lifetime, if not asked to lend money.
- Mark Twain

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Quote of the Day

Be careful of reading health books, you might die of a misprint.
- Mark Twain

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Quote of the Day

I have never let my schooling interfere with my education.
- Mark Twain

Monday, September 5, 2011

Quote of the Day

Mark Twain week! (Which means half the quotes probably aren't his anyway)

If a person offends you, do not resort to extremes. Simply watch your chance and hit him with a brick.
- Mark Twain

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Quote of the Day

Selfishness is not living as one wishes to live, it is asking others to live as one wishes to live.
- Oscar Wilde

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Quote of the Day

As for the virtuous poor, one can pity them, of course, but one cannot possibly admire them.
- Oscar Wilde

Friday, September 2, 2011

Quote of the Day

I am the only person in the world I should like to know thoroughly.
- Oscar Wilde