Kutna Hora

On Sunday I went out to the old mining town of Kutna Hora, about an hour east of Prague. Czech trains are cheap, but slow. One funny twist: at the central train station in Prague every announcement over the loudspeakers is heralded by a few tones from Smetana's "Ma Vlast" (of which the famous "Moldau" is a part).

I stayed at the basic but functionable (and cheap!) Hotel Kreta, which also has a Czech restaurant on the 1st floor. I indulged in the traditional Czech dish Svíčková na smetaně - beef with cream - which in addition contains a sweet and sour sauce, some jam and a heap of knedlíky (dumplings). The veggies, to the extent there are any, are overpowered by the meat and the sauce so it's safe fare for a carnivore like me. It's very filling and very yummy although most Czechs seem to believe no foreigner could possibly like it, I usually get a raised eyebrow when I ask for it.

I'd been told by several people that it was a really nice, medieval town but personally I found it to be rather dull in most respects. Some nice old buildings, sure, but nothing you can't find in Prague and on a Sunday evening it's impossible to get a decent meal after 9PM - the only place open was a cafe called Harmonia and they served the worst food I've ever had - a pork steak that was so hard I could barely cut it, much less chew it. Even the fries were horrible. One bright point was a bar - I forget its name, it's on Vladislavova street, right opposite a closed down hotel - that sold the best heated nachos I've ever had. Additionally, the waitress was both stunningly purdy and very nice.

I also have issues with the flexibility of their attractions. The Museum of Czech silver only allowed people to enter in groups and you would have had to book in advance. The next day I tried to see the city museum, but again I could only go with a guide and the next English speaking one was not available for a good 90 minutes. When people are that little interested in getting my money I'd rather spend it in a place where they show some appreciation for it.

I did see the huge Church of St Barbara - patron saint of mine workers - and the somewhat creepy Sedlec Ossuary where you can see various decorations made out of the bones of tens of thousands of corpses. Kutna Hora and its silver industry once rivaled the power of Prague, but today it's barely worth a visit, a day is certainly more than enough.

The chandelier supposedly contains at least one of every bone in the human body.


I see dead people.




After seeing all those skeletons, my appetite was really sharpened - after all, one wouldn't want to become skeletal while still alive, right?


I even indulged in dessert. No point in taking chances!


Some pics of Kutna Hora houses.






Church of St Barbara.


These old churches always have something Hogwarty about them.


The interior.


No church visit would be complete without a few examples of "I can haz cheeseburger" art.




"Gimme a cheeseburger or I drop the towel!"


Lastly, a wtf-moment as I passed by a souvenir shop.


All Kutna Hora pics here.