South Africa Day 8: To Orpen and back

After yesterday's animal bonanza, I set out shortly before 6, determined to hunt down some proper lions. I decided to drive towards Orpen, where the two Eastern Europeans had got caught in a traffic jam of epic proportions two days prior, caused by the presence of a large pride.

I saw plenty of animals, even stopping to take some pics, but no predators. Ellies, zebras, giraffes, two flocks of lovely, playful baboons, yes. But no cats. No lions. At Orpen I stopped to empty my bladder and to buy a new map as I had left my old twice now in the room.

African Stoopid Birds.


Baboons.



As I got in the car, I noticed a young girl standing by the roadside and I asked her if she was looking for a ride. She said yes and that she was going to Satara. I had nothing better to do, so I said I could take her there.

The next hour was spent in excellent company and I learned even more about life in South Africa, plus two new Swazi words [I have since been informed that one of them was Tsonga, further adding to the already considerable confusion in my noggin], doubling my previous cultural capital in that respect. Again, I was struck by how freely people were addressing political and cultural differences; there was really not much political correctness to detect.

Hyena not far out from Orpen.


Ellie right before Satara.


I deposited her at Satara, then went north again (no, not to Balule). I decided to take the Ngotso loop, which runs parallel to the paved road for about eight kilometers (5 miles). I saw a couple of ellies, but otherwise absolutely nada, even though I largely crept along at a very slow pace.

I had to take this photo, or else I could not have lived with myself (which is hard enough most days, let me tell you).


Back in Satara I greeted my hitchhiker, who was now manning the tills in the shop and stuffed face on a spicy chicken burger. Later in the afternoon I proved (as if further proof was necessary) that I was a complete and utter eejit.

Let me explain: In the morning, I had turned the tap in the shower to the left, but only fairly cold water emerged. I tried turning it to the right, but I felt even colder water coming out, so naturally I assumed something was wrong. I went and complained to the park authorities and a maintenance guy was dispatched.

When he arrived, he immediately turned the tap to the right and after a few seconds, scalding hot water was gushing out. I had simply fucked up something so simple as turning on a shower tap that morning. He was sent on his way with a 100-rand bill and a heartfelt apology for wasting his time like that.

I drove out again in the afternoon, shortly after 5PM, but didn't have much luck. First, I photographed one of the same jackals that was just outside camp last night; these guys seem to be hanging out here regularly.





Then I shot a honey badger who at first was unsure which car he should attack; mine or the guy coming from the opposite direction. He wisely chose neither and disappeared into the tall grass.

"I'm coming for you, fatso!"


Lastly, I spent some time taking pics of the jackals, which were now running around in the field just outside Satara. I also got in a pic of a zebra making a fool of himself, rolling around on the ground like an animal. Really!

About the size of a Norwegian fox.


The zebra, making a fool of himself.


Also, my sixth day without lions. Trying hard to ignore the voices in my head screaming for the blood of virgins.