Sunday, July 5, 2015

Canyon de Chelly

Canyon de Chelly National Monument lies in northeastern Arizona and is a joint venture between the US Parks Service and the Navajo Nation, on whose ground it is situated, or rather under whose ground, since we're talking about deep canyons here. This is yet another of those misnomers (like The La Brea Tar Pits), since "De Chelly" is a misunderstood Frenchism from the Navajo word "tséyi", which means... yeah, you guessed it... canyon.

Dozens and dozens of smaller canyons fork off from the main one and there are over 2,700 archaeological sites in the Monument. Around 40 families still live within the steep cliff walls, scraping out a living from farming, hunting and tourism. There are plenty of injuns around peddling pottery, blankets and various objects of art. You can walk down to one of the sites, but for the rest you need to be accompanied by a park ranger or a Navajo guide. Next time I'm here I'm going to book a tour in the morning and really explore, but for now feast your eyes on the stunning landscape that is the south rim of the canyon - it was all I had time for today.

The first canyon where you could stop and take pics.
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Small patches of cultivated land appear where you would not expect to see anything.
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The sand and the rock have been carved out by wind and water into everything from cozy little nooks to majestic pillars.
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And every now and then some rock formation will appear out of the ground.
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The river is usually a small creek, but it can flood.
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Some of these little valleys almost have their very own microclimate.
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An injun artist I talked to pointed out a cave and said there were three small water streams inside it. I think this was the one he meant.
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Ever the gullible tourist I bought this piece of art for $20. It probably took him ten minutes to make it, but at least he had the decency to sell something, not just sit there and beg like a fuckin' gypsy. Sweet Jeebus how I hate begging.
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Slightly to the left of center is a dirty-white patch of stone with some tiny people below it. These ruins are known to the injuns as the White House. It is one of the most popular destinations for a tour and you can hike the 2.5 mile stretch down to the bottom of the canyon, but then you have to get back up again. Uhmmmm, no thanks.
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And now, the most famous sight of them all: Spider rock. It's been used in countless commercials. The injuns in the southwest have a mytological creature known as Spider Grandmother (or variations thereof) and the Navajos and the Hopis believe she lives in the tallest spire. I do not wish to meet Spider Grandmother, as I still have nightmares about Shelob.
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The land around the two spires is so beautiful I even forgot to take a skelfie.
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Sho cozy.
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Sadly, the road endeth here but this little valley continued on. Wail.
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I know this is not a sparrow nor an ostrich, but it could be a helluva lot of things in between.
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