Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Launceston

Another place mentioned in the Jamaica Inn is Launceston. Once upon a time it was the capital of Cornwall, when the aforementioned Bob, half-brother to William the Bastard, built a wooden castle there. Lying as it does on the traditional border between Cornwall and Devon, the River Tamar, it had great strategic importance. Dicky, also aforementioned brother of a king (Henry III), rebuilt the castle in stone.

As tin became more economically lucrative, the taxes from it also became the main source of income for the local nobility. In order to finance their military adventures, their religious megalomania and their fancy-schmancy way of life the Crown, through its local representatives, had a monopoly on buying tin at a low price, allowing it to sell for export at huge profits. The result was of course smuggling of tin from Cornwall to the continent.

I spent about 20 minutes at the castle, which is nothing special today. It fell into disrepair centuries ago, though it was still used as the site for the wandering judges of yore, the so-called Court of Assizes until the late 1830s. It is said that when the townsmen heard that the magistrate was on his way, half the population would flee before he arrived.

The place today is a nice little town, not too touristy but with most of the modern conveniencies. All pics here.

The purdy lil' town hall. You almost had me write you off as a church, you floozy!
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Launceston Conservative Club.
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Ye olde tourist trap. I had a mediocre lunch at the pub in the center of the pic, while listening to other people's completely uninteresting life stories, which they were sharing loudly. Ye Gods, why meeeee?
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The White Hart Hotel is also mentioned in the "Jamaica Inn". Sadly it seems to have fallen on hard times if the sign is anything to go by.
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The war memorial. You can see how they added to it after the second world war. The "s" in "wars" is clearly added later, as it is much closer to the edge than "in" is. Also, "1939-1945" is tucked in at the bottom, where there should be space, like at the top. You can't fool me!
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"The Church and the State, your God and Country kind
One takes your body, the other takes your mind."
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This rickety, old building houses a real estate agent. Not sure if it's good advertising.
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Here, the nobles of old could watch the hunting of the deer, or the general oppression of the masses.
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You can still see the outline of the chimney.
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In the 13th century, there would be wooden landings inside the keep, and between the keep and the outer castle walls. You can still see where they had holes for the beams.
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From the very top of the castle. It was windy and I was dizzy. Then again I get dizzy on the first step of the stairs.
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Ancient crapper. Yup, I'm getting good at this.
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There was something Narniaesque about this lamp, standing alone in the castle grounds.
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