Later in the evening we rounded off in the saloon where we talked to the bartender, Jennifer, who was originally from Arkansas and had just happened to watch a TV programme from Norway a couple of weeks previously, so we had something to talk about there.
I also had a long, rambling, warm and funny chat with the owner, Dawn, whose father had been director of the world famous San Diego zoo back in the day. I've been there, so we had stuff to talk about there too. We liked the hotel, the saloon and the restaurant so much that when we found out they had a bluegrass jam session the next night, we decided to stay another day to soak up the local culture.
Sadly, they didn't have any rooms at the Occidental, but the very nice morning clerk called ahead and sent us a few blocks up the road to the Mansion Motel, a beautiful old building from 1903. Their air-conditioning leaves a little to be desired, but we had a good stay and the proprietor was hilarious.
Buffalo is a very cozy little town, and it looks just like most American towns might have looked 50-60 years ago. Sadly, the first signs of touristification have started, with art-farty galleries and alternative this and organic that. Pretty soon, they'll probably have a Starbucks, and you know there's no way back from there. But as of now I can highly recommend staying a couple of days in this town. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly, and you won't find nicer people anywhere.
All Buffalo pics here.
My bedroom at the Occidental. Huuuuge bed.
From the kitchen in our room at the Occidental. The owner told me that it was essentially unchanged from 1942, when a family member came home from the war with serious wounds and was lodged there. Before that, it had been the hotel kitchen. Everything was in working condition, from the fridge to the radio.
There are four parts to the hotel. There's a newly renovated breakfast cafe nearest to the bridge and the little river. There's trout to be fished in the stream. Yeah, it's that kind of town. Then you have the hotel, the saloon and the restaurant.
In the Virginian I had pan fried elk and a baked potato that was the best I've ever had. I don't normally go in for baked anything, but this chef can work miracles. Siri had some ravioli stuff and pronounced it divine. We both had burgers in the saloon on Thursday, and that was good stuff too.
Thursday we went and had a quick look at the annual fair that was ongoing in town. I sure hope things pick up for them, as the rodeo had more participants than spectators when we visited.
An honest to God produce contest. Veggies and fruits with little ribbons on them, and how the hell you can judge between onions is beyond me. I don't know that you can get much more small town American than this.
The lobby and dining room of the Mansion Motel.
Siri at the Mansion Motel.
Our bedroom at the Mansion Motel.
Me striking a reflective pose at the Mansion Motel.
From the saloon, which has tons of animal skins and heads along the walls. Is it just me, or does this bear skin have tire tracks across its back...?
Footstomping bluegrass at the Occidental Saloon. The fiddler had a cap that said "Israel", and we saw several anti-Obama garments. Siri, who is almost as right-wing and as pro-US and pro-Israel as me, said she felt like she had "come home".
They have this tradition on bluegrass nights where people donate stuff for a raffle. Everybody gets ONE ticket and you don't pay a cent. Later in the evening, the ticket seller (an old, spry fellow) comes round to take up donations. The proceeds go to local charity work. I won a glass of homemade raspberry jam which I haven't dared try yet.
Brochure for bluegrass jam sessions. I promise not to bring any bagpipes, okay?
Johnson County Courthouse. Buffalo is the capital of Johnson, which is famous for the so-called Johnson County War of 1892, a conflict between settlers and cattle "barons", which grew so violent the US Army was deployed.
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